Seeds that do not germinate, seedlings that fall over, or trays that stall at 2 cm are the most common questions that come in from new growers in the first week. None of these problems are permanent, and each has a specific cause. Here are the six that account for most of the stuck trays we see.

  • Most common culprit: wrong temperature or overwatering
  • Indian summer concern: temperatures above 38°C slow germination significantly
  • Monsoon concern: high humidity causes damping off if airflow is poor
  • Fix timeline: most problems are visible within 48-72 hours of changing conditions
  • Best growing temperature range: 18-28°C

1. Old or low-quality seeds

What it looks like: Uneven germination, with some seeds sprouting and others sitting inert after 4 to 5 days. Or nothing at all after 5 days.

What caused it: Seeds have a germination window. Beyond that window, germination rates drop, and you may get 30 or 40 percent of seeds sprouting instead of 80 to 90 percent. Seeds stored in humid conditions deteriorate faster.

How to fix it: Do a simple germination test before committing to a full tray. Place 10 seeds on a damp paper towel, fold it over, and keep it somewhere warm. Check after 3 days. If fewer than 7 of 10 have sprouted, the seeds are not reliable enough for tray growing. Source fresh seeds and store them in a sealed container in a cool, dry spot.

2. Wrong temperature

What it looks like: Seeds take more than 5 days to germinate, germination is patchy, or seedlings grow very slowly and stay short.

What caused it: Most microgreens germinate best between 18 and 28°C. In Delhi and NCR, April through June regularly pushes afternoon temperatures above 38°C indoors, especially in rooms that face west or do not have air conditioning. At those temperatures, enzyme activity in seeds slows and germination takes much longer than expected, or stalls entirely.

In winter, the opposite problem: rooms dropping below 15°C at night slow germination just as significantly.

How to fix it: In summer, move the tray to the coolest room in the house during the germination phase, or grow in air-conditioned spaces if available. A spot on a tiled floor away from windows is cooler than a shelf near glass. In winter, keep the tray near a heat source during the covered phase, but not so close that the medium dries out.

3. Wrong growing medium

What it looks like: Seeds germinate but seedlings are weak, fall over easily, or the medium develops a hard crust that seedlings cannot push through.

What caused it: Garden soil compacts in small trays and can carry pathogens. Heavy potting mix stays too wet for too long at the shallow depths used in microgreens trays. These conditions either suffocate roots or block young shoots.

How to fix it: Use a purpose-designed medium. Coco peat holds moisture evenly, does not compact, and is light enough for seedling shoots to push through easily. The PotsAlive coco peat disc expands to exactly the right depth for a standard microgreens tray and is sterile, meaning it carries no soil-borne mold or bacteria.

"I was using potting mix from a plant nursery for my first two trays. Both failed around day 4. Switched to coco peat and had my first successful harvest on the third try." PotsAlive customer, Noida

4. Overwatering

What it looks like: Seeds germinate but seedlings collapse at the base, or the medium smells sour and looks waterlogged. Stems may turn translucent or dark at the base. If you are also seeing fuzzy white growth on the surface, the mold guide explains whether that is root hairs or actual fungal growth.

What caused it: Microgreens roots need moisture and air. A medium that is always saturated cuts off oxygen to the roots, causing a condition called damping off where stems rot at the soil line. This is especially common during Delhi's monsoon months when ambient humidity is already high and the medium does not dry out between waterings.

How to fix it: Water once daily maximum, and check the medium surface before each watering. If it still feels moist from the previous day, skip that day. Bottom watering, where you pour water into the tray below and let the medium wick it up, is more controlled than misting from above and reduces the risk of keeping stems wet.

5. Underwatering

What it looks like: Seeds do not germinate or germinate and then stop growing. The medium surface looks dry and pulls away from the edges of the tray. Seedlings may look wilted even in the morning.

What caused it: Microgreens have shallow roots. They cannot access water deeper in the medium the way established plants can. A single missed watering in a hot, dry room can dry out the top layer enough to halt growth.

How to fix it: Check the medium by pressing it gently. It should feel like a wrung-out sponge: moist, not wet, not dry. In summer in Delhi, this may mean watering twice daily. Pay attention to whether your room is air-conditioned, as AC pulls humidity from the medium faster than natural ventilation.

6. Too much or too little light in the blackout phase

What it looks like: Seedlings emerge stretched and pale, with very thin stems that cannot support the leaf weight: this is the leggy problem, caused by insufficient light during or after the blackout phase. Or, the opposite: seeds take too long to germinate because the covered tray is in a location that heats up significantly in sunlight.

What caused it: The blackout phase, where seeds are covered for the first two to three days, is not about total darkness strictly. It is about warmth and moisture without light stress. Placing the covered tray in direct sun heats the medium too much. Placing it in a cold, dark cupboard may be too cold if winter temperatures are involved.

How to fix it: Keep covered trays at room temperature in a spot that does not get direct sunlight. After uncovering, do not move seedlings immediately into bright sun. Start with 2 to 3 hours of bright indirect light and increase over the next day. Seedlings that etiolate (stretch pale) need light, not heat. Seedlings that are pale after proper light exposure may have a medium or watering issue.

The complaint we hear most

Most kit users who message us in the first week have one of two problems: the tray got too hot (common April through June for Vikaspuri and other areas where summer heat builds indoors), or they watered too much because they thought more water would speed things up. The PotsAlive microgreens kit includes a basic guide, but the variables in your specific room are the ones that matter most.

A diagnostic shortcut

If you are not sure which problem you have, work through this order: check the seeds first (germination test), then temperature, then the medium, then watering. Light is the last variable to adjust because it is rarely the primary cause in a covered tray.

It has been 6 days and nothing has sprouted. Should I start again?

Check the temperature first. If the room has been above 35°C, the seeds may still be viable but slow. Lift the cover, moisten the medium if it has dried, and wait two more days. If still nothing at day 8, the seeds or temperature are the problem and a fresh start makes sense.

My seedlings are growing but they are very pale and thin. What do they need?

Light. Move the tray to a brighter location with indirect natural light. Pale, stretched seedlings are a sign the plant is searching for light. Do not place them in direct harsh sun immediately: introduce more light gradually over a day.

Can I fix damping off once it starts?

Partially. If only a few stems have collapsed, remove those plants, reduce watering, and improve airflow. If damping off is widespread, starting fresh is faster and less uncertain than trying to rescue the tray.

Is it normal for some seeds to germinate faster than others in the same tray?

Yes, within a window of 1 to 2 days. If some seeds are 5 days ahead of others with no germination at all in the slower batch, the slower seeds may be dead or the medium is uneven in moisture. Check whether one part of the tray is drier than another.

What is the best variety for a beginner who has already had two failed trays?

Radish or mustard. Both germinate fast (often within 2 to 3 days), are forgiving about temperature and watering within a reasonable range, and give you a clear result quickly. A successful tray builds your sense of what right looks and feels like.

Microgreens fail for specific, fixable reasons. One failed tray tells you something useful about your conditions. Most growers who stick with it past the third tray develop a reliable routine that works for their specific space. Start with radish: it is the fastest feedback loop and the most forgiving variety for working out your specific setup.